How Ankara Is Worn in Nigeria – My First Wardrobe Full of Colors

The first Ankara dress I ever owned came during my very first visit to Nigeria, in 2009. It was a gift from my mother-in-law – and also my first real encounter with African fashion as it's truly worn. It was tailored for me in the city of Awka.

Even then, I noticed one thing: women in Nigeria wear colors with the pride of a queen – regardless of the family or social class they come from. Ankara is not a privilege of the wealthy. This colorful cotton fabric, also known as Wax Print, is worn by all women in Nigeria – across age, faith, and social status.

While in Europe trends change every season, in Nigeria Ankara remains a timeless staple. It's worn everywhere – to weddings, to church, to celebrations, and on ordinary days. What constantly changes are the cuts of the dresses and the way the fabric is styled. Nigerian fashion is vibrant, creative, and adaptable – yet it has clear rules and symbolism.

At weddings, for example, women often agree to have dresses made from the same pattern of fabric – each in a different cut, but united in spirit. Married women traditionally wear a head covering with their dresses – usually a richly starched or carefully folded fan of fabric, signaling their marital status.

And it's not only women. Men often dress according to their social title – or simply coordinate with their wives so everyone instantly knows they belong together.

My first pink dress was made to match my sister-in-law's. It had a beautiful feminine cut that flattered every figure. It was sewn for me by a friend in the village of Nawgu. And that's the beauty of fashion in Nigeria – inspiration is not seen as copying, but as a tribute.

Even during pregnancy, women in Nigeria wear Ankara – not just because they want to look nice, but because dresses are tailored exactly to their body shape. Seamstresses are used to adapting patterns for all body types – whether it's a wedding dress or a comfortable, elegant maternity dress.

This photo is of my friend Francisca – pregnant, yet beautifully dressed, coordinated, and confident. That too is part of Nigerian culture: celebrating every moment of life, including pregnancy.

In Africa, clothing is often part of the community. When a woman is expecting a child, her surroundings know – and not just because they notice. You can often tell by the style she wears: loose, airy Ankara dresses that are comfortable yet beautiful.

Everyone notices, compliments her, sometimes helps choose the fabric or contributes towards having it made. Pregnancy here is seen as a blessing, and it's celebrated – even through clothing.

What always moves me in this photo is how proudly and naturally my friend stands. She's not a model, she's not on a runway – and yet she looks like a queen.

African fashion can do something European fashion sometimes loses: give women a sense of beauty regardless of size, age, or life stage. Ankara is not just fabric – it's a story, pride, and joy in one.

When you wear it, you're not just putting on a dress. You're putting on a piece of culture that embraces you like family.
And you might be surprised that this family has its doors open to anyone who comes with respect and heart.

So tell me… would you dare to have your first wardrobe full of colors?